Natural Hair Growth And Its Three Sources

My natural hair journey inadvertently started with a quest to repair my damaged,  relaxed hair.  I returned to hair care forums in January 2011 to refresh my knowledge on hair growth and retention methods. This era was quite different from my forum browsing days in 2005. Then, relaxed girls were “stretching their perms." Fast forward to 2012, "stretches" have evolved to “transitioning to natural." And, getting a relaxers has evolved to "tex-laxing."  

By observation from forums, hair growth and retention appeared to be more effective on natural hair women. This new wave of "transitioning" and "going natural" was a way to achieve longer, stronger hair. The obsession with hair growth reached epic proportions. I witnessed online groups acquire thousands of new members in weeks due to the newest fad of growth potions or topical agents.

Many women joined growth challenges with pregnancy vitamins, biotin pills, fish oil, miconazole nitrate, carrot juices, teas, and various hair stimulants such as castor oil or even cayenne pepper.  I even jumped on the bandwagon with my own peppermint and castor oil challenge.  By the third month of transitioning, I truly believed I saw growth progress from my peppermint/castor oil challenge.

After seven months of transitioning, I big chopped on August 7, 2011. As my natural hair grew out of the TWA stage, the knowledge I acquired became second nature, and all of my regimens were thrown out the window. I stopped participating in growth challenges.  The scalp massages stopped. But, my still hair grew and retained better than ever.  I couldn’t believe the back of my hair grew at the same rate as the front, with no potions or topical agents.  I found myself “scratching my head” many times, researching the source of this mystery growth.  I had no clear answer.  Did this mean that my growth from potions or topical agents from the past were an illusion? No!

I believe hair growth is a combination of three areas: topical agents, DHT blockers and  internal nutrition. There's also a fourth leg, which includes hair retention methods, but I will focus solely on the scalp!

TOPICAL STIMULANT:  A topical stimulant works to increase blood circulation to the scalp; it also encourages healthy scalp with anti-fungal or anti-bacterial agents.   

• Castor Oil
• Peppermint Oil
• Mustard Oil or sulfur oils
• Aloe Vera
• Lemongrass
• Chlorophyll  (juiced wheatgrass or powdered greens)
• Lavender
• Teas (Camellia Sinensis Teas and Rooibos)
• Rosemary
• Thyme
• Brahmi- Amla
• Scalp Massages

DHT BLOCKER:  A DHT blocker prevents the  dihydrotestosterone hormone (DHT) from killing off hair follicles that lead to baldness.  

• Horsetail
• Saw Palmetto
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Licorice
• Safflower Oil
• Sesame Oil
• Stinging Nettle

INTERNAL NUTRITION:  Internal nutrition consists of food or supplements that encourages healthy hair and healthy hair growth.

• Essential Fatty Acids / Omega 3’s (promotes collagen turnover and collagen foundation, which encourages keratin formation in skin and hair)
• Vitamins A, C, E - (antioxidant protects cells from free radicals and promotes collagen which encourages healthy keratin formation).
• Greens (green leafy vegetables adds oxygen to cells, encourages, healthy cell turnover of collagen, which is beneficial to keratin formation).
• Trace Minerals such as Silicon, Sulfur and Copper (cucumbers, brazil nuts)
• MSM (methlysulfonylmethane are the sulfur bonds in keratin).
• B-Vitamins

Hair Loss Prevention

Hair Growth Topical Stimulants

Sources:
Eating for Beauty by David Wolfe
Cortisol Control and the Beauty Connection

Incredible Artistry with Quilts!

Where have I been?

Besides switching careers, diets, learning new languages, and watching many documentaries, I took the time to view spectacular quilts at the International Quilt Festival!  This isn't a "granny pastime" but a display of incredible art, craftsmanship, history, storytelling and technology.

Enjoy my video and pictures below!

Food & Nutrition: 50 Docs Challenge! Finished 20 of 50!

 

I placed myself on a 50 Documentaries/Films/DVD challenge during my transition to raw foods lifestyle.  I'd say this is an excellent general introduction into:  raw foods and plant-based diets, industrial agriculture, preventative health care and disease reversal (cancer, heart disease, diabetes), nutrition basics, the bio-tech industry, gmos, the conventional medical industry, homeopathy and alternative medicine; options in organic and urban farming, government subsidies, and raw food recipes and lifestyle changes.

One of my career goals is to get certified as a health & nutrition coach and minister.

The time I spent watching the first 20 documentaries equals 32.75 hours of work, which isn't too far from a full-time workweek of increased knowledge.  If I were to equate this with a three-hour college course, which totals 45 hours a semester with a minimum of 90 study hours, I will be in my first quarter.

I'm happy to reach my first benchmark goal.

20 List

1. Super Charge Me (Jenna Norwood)
2. Simply Raw: Reversing Diabetes From Within
3. Eating (Mike Anderson)
4. The Future of Foods 
5. Healing Cancer from Inside Out (Mike Anderson)
6. Raw Kitchen Essentials - Dan "The Man" MacDonald
7. Raw Food Made Easy by Jennifer Cornbleet
8. The Beautiful Truth: The Worlds Simplest Cure For Cancer 
9. The Raw Gourmet by Nomi Shannon (3 DVDs)
10. God's Way To Ultimate Health - Seminar (George Malkmus)
11. Forks Over Knives
12. Excitotoxins: The Taste That Kills
13. Sweet Remedy: The World Reacts to an Adulterated Food Supply
14. Breakthrough: A Documentary About A Raw Food Family
15. Breaking The Food Seduction (Modern Manna presentation by Dr. Neal Bernard)
16. King Corn
17. Fat Sick and Nearly Dead
18. Latest In Clinical Nutrition Vol. 8 by Dr. Michael Greger
19. What's Not Cooking In Rhio's Kitchen 
20. Fresh

These videos will inspire you to change your thinking about food, lifestyle choices, the environment, and personal nutrition.  I am happy to sit as a student and complete 40% of my 50 Documentary/DVD/Films challenge.  As a student, I've taken a lot of notes, and have a lot of reviewing to do.  Of course, this has expanded to "100 Docs," which will focus more on nutrition, but 50 is my goal!

Raw Vegan Transition: My First Three Months

Transition To Raw Vegan

What I Learned So Far

• I worry less about proteins because I am getting the most nutrients, antioxidants, and enzymes I've ever received!
• I can't overeat nuts for protein. Nuts are high in fat.
• Rotate your greens; greens have protective qualities and can cause reactions.
• Stop worrying about acquiring the next shiny "kitchen appliance." 

 Things I Have Yet To Do

• Join a COOP or CSA for organic fruits and vegetables
• Finish my container garden (I'm late!)
• Buy "raw vegan" kitchen appliances  (knives, food processor, blender, juicers, dehydrator)
• Start Juicing

New Things I've Tried

• Green Smoothie (Arugula, Mango, Pineapple)
• Medjool Dates
• Papayas 
• Nutmilks
• Lots of Coconut Water
• Soaked & Dried Nuts & Seeds (Almond, Pumpkin, Walnuts)

Docs I've Watched

• Forks Over Knives
• Fat, Sick, and Nearly Dead
• Reversing the Irreversible by Victoria Boutenko
• Is Raw Food For You by Victoria Boutenko
• The Ultimate Encyclopedia of Raw Food Lifestyle
• Supercharge Me, 30 Days Raw

Books I've Read

• Wheat Grass by Ann Wigmore
• 80 10 10 by Douglas Graham
• 12 Steps To Raw Food Victoria Boutenko
• Ari's Raw Foods Essentials

More Books To Read

• The China Study - T. Coleman Graham
• Eat To Live by Joel Furman
• Thrive - The Vegan Nutrition Guide To Optimum Performance In Sports

Raw Food People I Like

• John Kohler (Growing Your Greens & OKRaw)
• Karyn Calabrese
• Victoria Boutenko
• Sistah In The Raw
• Evelyn Parham
• Kristina Bucaram - Fully Raw

Green People I Love

• Lola Zabeth

Twist Out Challenge Results

I've hated the twist out since my first failure in September 2011.  I never understood the natural hair hype around this style.  It was a timely style and looked beautiful on everyone else, except me.

After sporadic attempts, I participated in a May 2012 twist out challenge.

I think I found a new love!

Viva to the twist out!

All Black Women Will Have Natural Hair In A Decade (Revise)

In July 2011, I gave six reason why I believed All Black Women Will Have Natural Hair In A Decade.  If I were to compare my feelings in 2012 to last year, nothing has changed.  It appears everything is coming into fruition, but not in the way of mass change, but gradual change in psychological, environmental, workforce, hair care and style possibilities.    I prefer gradual change because it has nothing to do with fads or trends, but growth and acceptance.    

Watch both videos below, and send your opinions!

2012

2011 

The video that started it all

Self Esteem Bootcamp: Love Your Nose!

Self-Image & Confidence 

 My nose is an expression and symbolism of the women I admire.  My mother and my grandmother mean a lot to me, and changing my features would be erasing their images in me.  I believe makeup artists should enhance features instead of changing them.

Raw Vegan Kitchen Tools

This year, I've taken on another life-long challenge.  I want to include more fresh foods in my diet, eventually becoming a raw vegan.  Raw food can be as simple as eating fruit, vegetables, nuts, seeds, and good water!  But, if you want to explore your options, I'd start with a good blender and knife! After reading the beginning of Ani Phyo's book, Raw Food Essentials, I made a collage of vegan kitchen tools.

I collected a long list of books to read and potential products for cooking----starting with a modest blender for green smoothies and greens for daily consumption.  Wish me the best!

Raw Vegan Kitchen Tools

•  FOOD PROCESSOR
• VEGETABLE JUICER
• HIGH-SPEED BLENDER
• TRIBEST PERSONAL BLENDER
• EXCALIBUR DEHYDRATOR
• KNIFE
• MIXING BOWLS
• MEASURING CUPS AND SPOONS

OTHER ITEMS 

• SPIRALIZER
• MANDOLINE SLICER
• WHISK
• GRINDER or MORTAR AND PESTLE
• CITRUS JUICER
• BAKING, PIE, OR TARTLET PAN
• LEMON ZESTER
• GRATER or PLANER
• ICE-CREAM SCOOPER
• STRAINING SIEVE
• RUBBER SPATULA
• MASON JARS
• CHOCOLATE MOULD TRAY
• GLOVES
• COOKIE CUTTERS
• COCKTAIL SHAKER

The Tipping Point of Natural Hair and My Hair Journey

I intermittently browsed hair sites for almost seven years.  

I came across a seven-year old email from a hair care community site.  Actually, it was a response email from Audra Sivasothy, the author of The Science of Black Hair.  During that time, I was relaxed, participating in a "healthy hair and growth journey."  

In 2005, the phenomenon of transitioning to natural hair wasn't a hot topic on black hair forums.  Although it was was popular for relaxed women to "stretch"  their time between relaxers, we didn't used the term  "transitioning" on the hair boards.  Then, I was aware of one online natural hair community.  Natural hair wasn't integrated into "black hair care" forums like today.

So, what was the tipping point when black women began to wear natural hair in large numbers?

Can we credit celebrities and entertainment?   


Although the movie "Good Hair" gets mixed reviews from naturals, many women online claimed the movie turned them away from relaxers.   Some people give Youtube all of the credit.   I do believe online videos, blogs, and hair boards  increased the public's familiarity with natural styles, products, regimens and remedies. 

Again, what was the tipping point?

I do not believe this current natural hair movement will remain as a trend like the 90's. I neither believe it will be smothered out of existence by larger institutional systems  like in the 70's.   

Dream Board Collage: Reflections

Happy New Year!

It's 2012, and I have yet to set a resolution, but I have many goals and plans on paper.  Last year, I took my vision board one step further by making it slide show presentation. I do believe the lesson I gained from the prior year is to: "Never mislabel preparations as mistakes!"

Below, I've included  images of my old affirmations and vision boards.  I glossed over the subject in  my post, Dream In Color.  I want to give you an idea of how to keep your dreams in your sight, mind and ears.

Related Post: Visualize Your Dreams In Color

Type 4 Natural Hair Is Easy To Manage (Even When Difficult)

I have type 4, thick, natural hair, which can be defined as double trouble if I allowed it to be.  But, I am determine to solve all potential issues that comes with having natural hair.   I initially chose to get rid of all my "relaxed hair" rituals and mentalities, and start over!

For twist out styles:

When I big chopped, my hair was 2 1/2 inches in length.  I had few quick styling options with exception of the wash-and-go and afro.

• Twist outs required micros, which can take hours.  
• My hair was too thick and short for big braid outs.  
• My scalp hated wigs, weaves, and synthetic hair, so fake hair was out of the question.
•  Corn rows or flat twists worked, but weren't always quick to do.

Solution:  

I chose to wear wash-and-gos with headbands, scarves, and accessories until I reached four inches in length.  If I wanted to wear twist outs or braid outs, I prepared my hair while watching a movie or tv show to past time.  I had no complaints because I attempted these complex styles while being entertained.

I documented challenges since I big chopped four months ago.

1. Multiple Textures

2. Sensitive Scalp

3. Dry Hair

4. Styling Fails

5. Styling Time

6. Shrinkage Solutions

7. Tangles

8. Products

9.  Edges 

10.  Healthy hair and low porosity issues

These challenges could have been a problem, but I chose to solve them instead of complaining about my type 4, thick, natural hair. 

Natural Hair: 22 Reasons Why I Don't Need A Relaxer

Natural Hair Is Better 

Anything you can do I can do better.  I can do anything better than you. 

I discovered the natural hair community on Youtube in January 2011.  After observing that I can do everything with my naturally curly hair as my relaxed hair, I decided to save money and exposure to unnecessary chemicals, and go natural.  

I got 99 problems, but a relaxer ain't one!

  I listed 22 reasons of why I will never use a relaxer again in my life.

1. No chemicals
2. No protein treatment dependence
3. No"relaxer-caused" dandruff
4. No touch ups
5. Stronger hair
6. No high porosity issues
7. No color on top of relaxer chemicals
8. No heat on top of relaxer chemicals
9. No chemical burns, scalp burns or scalp damage
10. No combs: combing utensils are different for natural hair
11. No boar bristle brushes: brushing utensils are different for natural hair
12. No "new growth" worries
13. Know thyself.  Be the master of your own texture.
14. Diversity in styles like never before (The Big One for me)
15. Wash-and-wear hair
16. Water is your friend. 
17. Wet combing is good.
18. Curly to Straight = Possible ;  Relaxed Straight to Kinky/Curly = Virtually impossible or extremely time consuming if attempted as a style
19. No receding edges; issues common in relaxer/sew-ins
20. No consistent beautician salon expenses for touch ups or relaxers; no long waits or routine appointment for relaxers
21. Thicker hair stands
22. Knowledge of natural hair changes your vocabulary: words like "unmanageable" won't exist.

Are Hair Growth Products, Stimulants, and Serums Worth It?

I've included a two-part series of my hair regimen and skepticism towards the flood of hair growth products and practices in the natural hair market. I believe in simplicity and "knowing thyself" in relation to growing healthy hair.

My Hair Regimen

Natural Hair & The Big Chop: Negative Reactions

"If we don't get to know our hair we can't love it or appreciate it." 
Lisa Akbari

I Love My Hair

Yesterday, I couldn't believe the negative response I received from a relative about my short natural hair.  It takes a lot of restraint and desire to find opportunity in such negativity.  I chose to document my reaction in audio and video.  

When I first started my natural hair journey, I kept a picture file of natural hair inspirations.  It later progressed from Fotki photobooks to Youtube to Tumblr blogs.  I hope to educate my relative on the  versatility and options with natural hair.

Eden BodyWorks : My Transition to Big Chop Story

Transition to Big Chop

I'm proud to discover that my hair story was featured by EDEN BodyWorks!  In January, I rummaged through Walmart's natural cosmetics section in search of EDEN Bodyworks Peppermint Tea Tree Hair Milk.   I left empty-handed, but later found a contest on their website.  This summer, I won a bottle of their Peppermint Tea Tree Shampoo, which gently cleansed my scalp, and provided a minty stimulation.  I am thoroughly pleased with the results!

SHAMPOO REVIEW

Best Use:  

Gentle cleansing.  It's also great for build up from oils and light butters! It doesn't strip your hair, but it's best for your scalp.

Fragrance: 

Very minty! But, pleasant. 

Heavy-Duty Cleansing: 

The amount of mint and tea tree can be stimulating, and drying if used in excess, but "transitioning and naturals" wouldn't overuse a shampoo.

EDEN BodyWorks Facebook

EDEN BodyWorks Website

Visualize Your Goals: Dream In Color

Goals : Dare to Dream

I'm working on clarifying my vision and goals.  My first vision board  showcased my career ambitions and living conditions.  At that time,  I had an apartment with no job or furniture.  I received a job three days later and a home full of furniture within six months. Halt! Don't judge me!  I am not taking "The Secret" to the extreme!   I just believe having your goals in front of you in writing or pictures will keep you focused on achieving them. 

Below are various "visuals" to assist in your goal planning.

Sources: Natural Home Magazine & Alive (Canada)

Schoolin' Life: Business of Giving

Business Life Lessons

I'm doing a Schoolin' Life series on the best advice, knowledge, or experience I've ever received without formal education or training.

I use examples on natural hair and beauty.  Here's my video about the business of giving, based on the Launch book.

Beauty Experts: They Can Be Wrong!

Beauty, Skin and Hair

I received an e-mail this morning from The Beauty Brains with an article on trusting experts and self-proclaimed "authorities"with beauty decisions.

"Remember that just because someone is a subject matter expert in one aspect of hair or skin, it doesn't mean they are qualified to give expert advice.... In other words, dermatologists aren't formulators and stylists know hair, not hair products. "

I'll take it further and say some stylists know hair styles and not all types of hair.  I'll go even further and say that stylists, dermatologists, formulators, and trichologists are not you!  You live with your hair and skin everyday, and it's unbelievable how much power we give to third parties.  When your hair becomes brittle or skin breaks out, you should be the first person to recognize it.  Many women wait until they're in salons chairs or dermatologist offices to recall the sources of their beauty issue.

The best advice I received on hair wasn't from a trichologist or license cosmetologist, but from people who researched; achieved success through trial and error; and gave their information away for free.  Authors like Terri Laflesh and Chicoro constantly give out helpful content, but equally sell hair books that are more relevant than books written from licensed professionals.

From my experience, many licensed professionals hide or give misinformation  because they choose to speak on topics that aren't their specialties (such as Joann Robertson and Andre Walker with natural hair).

I wish more beauty professionals would follow the Elevation Principle of helping others with great, accurate information instead of trying to sell a product first.  Youtubers like Naptural85 and  Kimmaytube  have given enough credible content away to become authority figures in their own niche.  If either lady chose to sell a product, they'd have no problem with credibility or sales.

The perfect example is Audrey-Davis Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair, who spent years contributing information on hair communities and writing online articles. Davis-Sivasothy is a health scientist with natural and relaxed hair experience, but she doesn't present herself as an all-encompassing expert.
The Science of Black Hair is one of the most respected books of its kind.  Some would argue it is the first to merge science and knowledge of afro-textured hair in textbook form.

I am no licensed expert, but I have to live and sleep with my hair and skin.  After spending thousands of dollars on ineffective hair and skin products by "opt-in-buy-first professionals," I'm skeptical about giving my power to "experts" and "authority" figures without consulting with me.  I know I am an expert too.

Related Posts: Schoolin' Life: The Business of Giving

Natural Hair Companies: Are There Too Many?

Companies with a natural hair following

Natural Hair Care Companies

Everyone and their mother is starting a natural hair company.  This is a sign of an emerging market that expands beyond oils and butters.

Products ranging from sulfate-free cleansers to growth aids to locking utensils are sold online and in local supply shops with afro-textured hair women (and men) as their targets.   Unlike other emerging markets, the natural hair movement is one that requires engagement, whether online or at local meetups. 


There is strength in numbers with natural hair consumers. But, will it be the same for natural hair companies?

• Do you believe the influx of companies is positive for natural consumers?
• Will there be predatory large companies and unscrupulous small companies taking advantage of this growth? 

 What are you thoughts?

Here are my thoughts below: