Natural Hair Growth And Its Three Sources

My natural hair journey inadvertently started with a quest to repair my damaged,  relaxed hair.  I returned to hair care forums in January 2011 to refresh my knowledge on hair growth and retention methods. This era was quite different from my forum browsing days in 2005. Then, relaxed girls were “stretching their perms." Fast forward to 2012, "stretches" have evolved to “transitioning to natural." And, getting a relaxers has evolved to "tex-laxing."  

By observation from forums, hair growth and retention appeared to be more effective on natural hair women. This new wave of "transitioning" and "going natural" was a way to achieve longer, stronger hair. The obsession with hair growth reached epic proportions. I witnessed online groups acquire thousands of new members in weeks due to the newest fad of growth potions or topical agents.

Many women joined growth challenges with pregnancy vitamins, biotin pills, fish oil, miconazole nitrate, carrot juices, teas, and various hair stimulants such as castor oil or even cayenne pepper.  I even jumped on the bandwagon with my own peppermint and castor oil challenge.  By the third month of transitioning, I truly believed I saw growth progress from my peppermint/castor oil challenge.

After seven months of transitioning, I big chopped on August 7, 2011. As my natural hair grew out of the TWA stage, the knowledge I acquired became second nature, and all of my regimens were thrown out the window. I stopped participating in growth challenges.  The scalp massages stopped. But, my still hair grew and retained better than ever.  I couldn’t believe the back of my hair grew at the same rate as the front, with no potions or topical agents.  I found myself “scratching my head” many times, researching the source of this mystery growth.  I had no clear answer.  Did this mean that my growth from potions or topical agents from the past were an illusion? No!

I believe hair growth is a combination of three areas: topical agents, DHT blockers and  internal nutrition. There's also a fourth leg, which includes hair retention methods, but I will focus solely on the scalp!

TOPICAL STIMULANT:  A topical stimulant works to increase blood circulation to the scalp; it also encourages healthy scalp with anti-fungal or anti-bacterial agents.   

• Castor Oil
• Peppermint Oil
• Mustard Oil or sulfur oils
• Aloe Vera
• Lemongrass
• Chlorophyll  (juiced wheatgrass or powdered greens)
• Lavender
• Teas (Camellia Sinensis Teas and Rooibos)
• Rosemary
• Thyme
• Brahmi- Amla
• Scalp Massages

DHT BLOCKER:  A DHT blocker prevents the  dihydrotestosterone hormone (DHT) from killing off hair follicles that lead to baldness.  

• Horsetail
• Saw Palmetto
• Rosemary
• Sage
• Licorice
• Safflower Oil
• Sesame Oil
• Stinging Nettle

INTERNAL NUTRITION:  Internal nutrition consists of food or supplements that encourages healthy hair and healthy hair growth.

• Essential Fatty Acids / Omega 3’s (promotes collagen turnover and collagen foundation, which encourages keratin formation in skin and hair)
• Vitamins A, C, E - (antioxidant protects cells from free radicals and promotes collagen which encourages healthy keratin formation).
• Greens (green leafy vegetables adds oxygen to cells, encourages, healthy cell turnover of collagen, which is beneficial to keratin formation).
• Trace Minerals such as Silicon, Sulfur and Copper (cucumbers, brazil nuts)
• MSM (methlysulfonylmethane are the sulfur bonds in keratin).
• B-Vitamins

Hair Loss Prevention

Hair Growth Topical Stimulants

Sources:
Eating for Beauty by David Wolfe
Cortisol Control and the Beauty Connection

Twist Out Challenge Results

I've hated the twist out since my first failure in September 2011.  I never understood the natural hair hype around this style.  It was a timely style and looked beautiful on everyone else, except me.

After sporadic attempts, I participated in a May 2012 twist out challenge.

I think I found a new love!

Viva to the twist out!

All Black Women Will Have Natural Hair In A Decade (Revise)

In July 2011, I gave six reason why I believed All Black Women Will Have Natural Hair In A Decade.  If I were to compare my feelings in 2012 to last year, nothing has changed.  It appears everything is coming into fruition, but not in the way of mass change, but gradual change in psychological, environmental, workforce, hair care and style possibilities.    I prefer gradual change because it has nothing to do with fads or trends, but growth and acceptance.    

Watch both videos below, and send your opinions!

2012

2011 

The video that started it all

The Tipping Point of Natural Hair and My Hair Journey

I intermittently browsed hair sites for almost seven years.  

I came across a seven-year old email from a hair care community site.  Actually, it was a response email from Audra Sivasothy, the author of The Science of Black Hair.  During that time, I was relaxed, participating in a "healthy hair and growth journey."  

In 2005, the phenomenon of transitioning to natural hair wasn't a hot topic on black hair forums.  Although it was was popular for relaxed women to "stretch"  their time between relaxers, we didn't used the term  "transitioning" on the hair boards.  Then, I was aware of one online natural hair community.  Natural hair wasn't integrated into "black hair care" forums like today.

So, what was the tipping point when black women began to wear natural hair in large numbers?

Can we credit celebrities and entertainment?   


Although the movie "Good Hair" gets mixed reviews from naturals, many women online claimed the movie turned them away from relaxers.   Some people give Youtube all of the credit.   I do believe online videos, blogs, and hair boards  increased the public's familiarity with natural styles, products, regimens and remedies. 

Again, what was the tipping point?

I do not believe this current natural hair movement will remain as a trend like the 90's. I neither believe it will be smothered out of existence by larger institutional systems  like in the 70's.   

Type 4 Natural Hair Is Easy To Manage (Even When Difficult)

I have type 4, thick, natural hair, which can be defined as double trouble if I allowed it to be.  But, I am determine to solve all potential issues that comes with having natural hair.   I initially chose to get rid of all my "relaxed hair" rituals and mentalities, and start over!

For twist out styles:

When I big chopped, my hair was 2 1/2 inches in length.  I had few quick styling options with exception of the wash-and-go and afro.

• Twist outs required micros, which can take hours.  
• My hair was too thick and short for big braid outs.  
• My scalp hated wigs, weaves, and synthetic hair, so fake hair was out of the question.
•  Corn rows or flat twists worked, but weren't always quick to do.

Solution:  

I chose to wear wash-and-gos with headbands, scarves, and accessories until I reached four inches in length.  If I wanted to wear twist outs or braid outs, I prepared my hair while watching a movie or tv show to past time.  I had no complaints because I attempted these complex styles while being entertained.

I documented challenges since I big chopped four months ago.

1. Multiple Textures

2. Sensitive Scalp

3. Dry Hair

4. Styling Fails

5. Styling Time

6. Shrinkage Solutions

7. Tangles

8. Products

9.  Edges 

10.  Healthy hair and low porosity issues

These challenges could have been a problem, but I chose to solve them instead of complaining about my type 4, thick, natural hair. 

Beauty Experts: They Can Be Wrong!

Beauty, Skin and Hair

I received an e-mail this morning from The Beauty Brains with an article on trusting experts and self-proclaimed "authorities"with beauty decisions.

"Remember that just because someone is a subject matter expert in one aspect of hair or skin, it doesn't mean they are qualified to give expert advice.... In other words, dermatologists aren't formulators and stylists know hair, not hair products. "

I'll take it further and say some stylists know hair styles and not all types of hair.  I'll go even further and say that stylists, dermatologists, formulators, and trichologists are not you!  You live with your hair and skin everyday, and it's unbelievable how much power we give to third parties.  When your hair becomes brittle or skin breaks out, you should be the first person to recognize it.  Many women wait until they're in salons chairs or dermatologist offices to recall the sources of their beauty issue.

The best advice I received on hair wasn't from a trichologist or license cosmetologist, but from people who researched; achieved success through trial and error; and gave their information away for free.  Authors like Terri Laflesh and Chicoro constantly give out helpful content, but equally sell hair books that are more relevant than books written from licensed professionals.

From my experience, many licensed professionals hide or give misinformation  because they choose to speak on topics that aren't their specialties (such as Joann Robertson and Andre Walker with natural hair).

I wish more beauty professionals would follow the Elevation Principle of helping others with great, accurate information instead of trying to sell a product first.  Youtubers like Naptural85 and  Kimmaytube  have given enough credible content away to become authority figures in their own niche.  If either lady chose to sell a product, they'd have no problem with credibility or sales.

The perfect example is Audrey-Davis Sivasothy, author of The Science of Black Hair, who spent years contributing information on hair communities and writing online articles. Davis-Sivasothy is a health scientist with natural and relaxed hair experience, but she doesn't present herself as an all-encompassing expert.
The Science of Black Hair is one of the most respected books of its kind.  Some would argue it is the first to merge science and knowledge of afro-textured hair in textbook form.

I am no licensed expert, but I have to live and sleep with my hair and skin.  After spending thousands of dollars on ineffective hair and skin products by "opt-in-buy-first professionals," I'm skeptical about giving my power to "experts" and "authority" figures without consulting with me.  I know I am an expert too.

Related Posts: Schoolin' Life: The Business of Giving

Natural Hair Positive Affirmations - Thick Hair

Good Hair, Thick Hair

I believe in positive affirmations and that doesn't exclude my hair. I lived most of my life unfamiliar with my tightly curly hair, which was foreign territory to me.  When I received compliments for having thick hair, I'd get modest and say, "..thank you, but it's a lot to work with!"  

I expressed my hair challenges instead of embracing the thickness of my hair.  I had this problem when I was relaxed,  but it crept over when I became natural. 


 But, no complaints this time!  I must accept my hair and master it.

I chose to speak and write affirmations for my thick hair.

• Your hair is full, healthy and beautiful with many strands.

• People pay for hair extensions to have the fullness and density of your hair.

• When someone compares your hair to a wig, it's a compliment! Be happy! 

Here's a video of my affirmations.